Mechanical Waves
| Sitio: | Young Education |
| Curso: | Waves |
| Libro: | Mechanical Waves |
| Impreso por: | Guest user |
| Fecha: | lunes, 9 de noviembre de 2026, 16:37 |
1. Transverse Waves
Learning outcomes
- I can describe transverse waves.
- I can identify examples of transverse waves.
- I can recognize particle motion in transverse waves.
- I can compare transverse waves with longitudinal waves.
- I can sketch transverse waves.
2. Longitudinal Waves
Learning outcomes
- I can describe longitudinal waves.
- I can identify compressions and rarefactions.
- I can explain how sound travels through matter.
- I can compare longitudinal and transverse waves.
- I can interpret longitudinal wave diagrams.
3. Water Waves
Learning outcomes
- I can describe how water waves move.
- I can explain that water particles move in circular paths.
- I can identify wave properties in water waves.
- I can compare shallow and deep water waves.
- I can describe applications of water waves.
Water Waves
Water waves are disturbances that transfer energy across the surface of water. They are familiar examples of wave motion because we can observe them in oceans, lakes, swimming pools, ponds, and ripple tanks.
When a water wave moves across the surface, the water itself does not simply travel forward with the wave. Instead, individual water particles move around their equilibrium positions while the wave pattern and energy travel forward.
Near the surface, water particles typically follow approximately circular or elliptical paths.
This makes water waves more complicated than purely transverse or purely longitudinal waves.
How Water Waves Move
Imagine dropping a small stone into a calm pond.
Circular ripples spread outward from the point where the stone enters the water.
It may appear that water is travelling outward with the ripples, but most water particles remain in approximately the same general area.
Instead:
- the particles move
- they transfer energy to neighbouring particles
- the disturbance moves outward
- the particles return approximately toward their original positions
Therefore:
wave motion ≠ overall movement of the water
The wave carries energy across the surface.
Water Particle Motion
Near the surface of sufficiently deep water, particles move in approximately circular paths as a wave passes.
A particle may move:
up → forward → down → backward → up
forming an approximately circular orbit.
The particle ends each cycle near where it began.
The wave, however, continues travelling forward.
Why Water Waves Are Not Purely Transverse
In a transverse wave, particle motion is perpendicular to wave travel.
But water particles near the surface have both:
- vertical motion
- horizontal motion
Because these motions combine into approximately circular or elliptical paths, surface water waves are not purely transverse.
They contain characteristics of both transverse and longitudinal motion.
For introductory diagrams, water waves are often drawn with crests and troughs because their surface shape resembles a transverse wave.
Energy Transfer
Water waves transfer energy through the water.
For example, a storm far out at sea can generate waves that travel hundreds or thousands of kilometres.
The individual water particles do not travel that entire distance.
Instead, the disturbance transfers energy from one region of water to another.
This is the same general principle seen in other waves:
energy travels while matter mainly oscillates locally.
Crests
The crest is the highest part of a water wave above its equilibrium level.
Successive crests can be used to measure wavelength.
If two neighbouring crests are:
8 m apart
then:
λ = 8 m
where λ represents wavelength.
Troughs
The trough is the lowest part of the wave below equilibrium.
Wavelength can also be measured:
trough → next trough
The distance from one crest to the neighbouring trough represents approximately:
λ/2
for a regular wave.
Equilibrium Level
The equilibrium level is the normal undisturbed water level.
Amplitude is measured relative to this level.
A wave moves above and below equilibrium as it passes.
Amplitude
Amplitude is the maximum displacement of the water surface from equilibrium.
It can be measured from:
equilibrium → crest
or:
equilibrium → trough
If the vertical distance from trough to crest is:
2.0 m
then the amplitude is:
2.0/2
A = 1.0 m
Do not confuse amplitude with total wave height.
Wave Height
For a regular symmetric wave:
wave height = crest-to-trough vertical distance
and:
wave height = 2 × amplitude
Therefore:
amplitude = wave height/2
For example, if:
wave height = 4 m
then:
amplitude = 2 m
In oceanography, wave height is commonly measured from trough to crest.
Wavelength
Wavelength is the distance between corresponding points on consecutive waves.
Symbol:
λ
For water waves, it can be measured from:
- crest to crest
- trough to trough
Its SI unit is:
metre (m)
Frequency
Frequency is the number of complete waves passing a point each second.
Symbol:
f
Unit:
hertz (Hz)
If:
f = 2 Hz
then:
2 complete wave cycles pass a point each second.
Period
The period is the time required for one complete wave cycle.
Symbol:
T
Unit:
second (s)
Frequency and period are related:
f = 1/T
and:
T = 1/f
If:
T = 4 s
then:
f = 1/4
f = 0.25 Hz
Wave Speed
Wave speed describes how quickly the wave pattern travels.
The basic wave equation is:
v = fλ
where:
v = wave speed in m/s
f = frequency in Hz
λ = wavelength in m
This relationship applies to water waves as well as many other types of waves.
Worked Example
Water waves have:
frequency = 0.50 Hz
wavelength = 6 m
Calculate the wave speed.
Use:
v = fλ
Substitute:
v = 0.50 × 6
v = 3 m/s
The waves travel at:
3 m/s
Finding Wavelength
A water wave travels at:
4 m/s
and has a frequency of:
0.25 Hz
Use:
v = fλ
Rearrange:
λ = v/f
Substitute:
λ = 4/0.25
λ = 16 m
Finding Frequency
A wave travels at:
6 m/s
and has a wavelength of:
12 m
Use:
f = v/λ
f = 6/12
f = 0.50 Hz
Reading Water-Wave Diagrams
When interpreting a water-wave diagram, identify:
- direction of wave travel
- equilibrium level
- crest
- trough
- amplitude
- wavelength
If particle paths are shown, also examine how the motion changes with depth.
Remember that a side-view wave diagram shows the shape of the water surface. It does not mean every particle simply travels along that curved line.
Particle Motion Below the Surface
Wave motion is strongest near the surface.
In deep water, the size of the particle orbits decreases with depth.
Near the surface:
larger circular motion
Deeper down:
smaller circular motion
Eventually, the effect of the surface wave becomes very small.
This is important because the behaviour of a wave changes when the water becomes shallow enough for the wave motion to interact strongly with the bottom.
Deep-Water Waves
A water wave is considered deep-water when the water is sufficiently deep compared with its wavelength that the bottom has little effect on the wave.
A commonly used condition is:
water depth > λ/2
In deep water:
- the bottom has little influence
- particles near the surface move in approximately circular paths
- particle motion decreases with depth
- longer-wavelength gravity waves generally travel faster than shorter-wavelength ones
The last point means deep-water ocean waves are dispersive: wave speed depends on wavelength.
Shallow-Water Waves
A wave is considered shallow-water when the water depth is small compared with its wavelength.
A commonly used condition is approximately:
water depth < λ/20
In shallow water:
- the bottom strongly affects the wave
- particle paths become more flattened or elliptical
- the wave slows down
- wavelength decreases
- the wave may become taller and steeper as it approaches shore
Between the deep- and shallow-water limits is an intermediate region.
Comparing Deep and Shallow Water Waves
| Property | Deep Water | Shallow Water |
|---|---|---|
| Effect of bottom | Small | Strong |
| Particle paths | More nearly circular near surface | More flattened or elliptical |
| Speed | Depends on wavelength | Strongly depends on water depth |
| Approaching shore | Before major bottom interaction | Waves slow and change shape |
| Wavelength | Generally longer before shoaling | Decreases as waves slow |
| Wave height | May be relatively lower | Can increase during shoaling |
The transition occurs gradually rather than suddenly at one exact location.
Why Waves Slow in Shallow Water
As a water wave enters shallower water, its motion begins interacting more strongly with the seabed.
For shallow-water gravity waves, speed is approximately:
v = √(gd)
where:
v = wave speed
g = gravitational field strength
d = water depth
This shows that:
smaller depth → lower wave speed
Therefore, waves slow as they enter shallower water.
Frequency When a Wave Enters Shallow Water
When a wave moves from deep water into shallow water, its frequency remains approximately constant because the frequency is determined by the source.
But the wave speed decreases.
Using:
v = fλ
if:
v decreases
and:
f remains constant
then:
λ must decrease
Therefore:
shallower water → lower speed → shorter wavelength
for a wave moving toward shore.
Worked Example: Entering Shallow Water
Suppose a wave has:
frequency = 0.20 Hz
deep-water speed = 10 m/s
Its initial wavelength is:
λ = v/f
λ = 10/0.20
λ = 50 m
Suppose its speed decreases to:
6 m/s
while frequency remains 0.20 Hz.
New wavelength:
λ = 6/0.20
λ = 30 m
The wavelength decreases as the wave slows.
Shoaling
As ocean waves enter shallow water, they undergo a process called shoaling.
During shoaling:
- wave speed decreases
- wavelength decreases
- wave height can increase
- waves become steeper
Eventually, the wave may become unstable and break.
This produces the familiar breaking waves seen near beaches.
Breaking Waves
As waves approach shore:
- the lower parts of the wave interact strongly with the seabed
- wave speed decreases
- wavelength becomes shorter
- the wave becomes steeper
- the crest may move forward faster than the lower part
- the wave becomes unstable
- the crest collapses
The result is a breaking wave.
Unlike waves in deep water, breaking waves can produce substantial forward movement of water toward shore.
Refraction of Water Waves
Refraction occurs when a wave changes direction because its speed changes.
Suppose one side of a wavefront enters shallow water before the other side.
That side slows first.
The wavefront turns.
This causes waves approaching a coastline at an angle to bend.
Why Waves Often Approach a Beach Nearly Parallel to Shore
Suppose waves approach a beach at an angle.
The part of each wavefront entering shallow water first slows down first.
The deeper-water part continues moving faster.
The wavefront rotates.
As a result, wave crests tend to become more nearly parallel to the shoreline.
This is an important example of refraction.
Diffraction
Diffraction is the spreading of waves when they:
- pass through an opening
- travel around an obstacle
Water waves can clearly demonstrate diffraction.
For example, waves passing through a narrow harbour entrance can spread into the sheltered water behind it.
Diffraction is strongest when the size of the opening or obstacle is similar to the wavelength.
Reflection
Water waves can also undergo reflection.
When waves encounter a barrier such as:
- a seawall
- harbour wall
- cliff
- edge of a ripple tank
part of their energy may be reflected.
The reflected waves can interact with incoming waves and create complicated patterns.
Interference
When two water waves meet, their displacements combine.
This is called interference.
If two crests meet, a temporarily larger displacement can occur.
If a crest and trough meet, they may partially or completely cancel temporarily.
After the interaction, the waves continue travelling.
This principle is called superposition.
Ripple Tanks
A ripple tank is a shallow container of water used to study wave behaviour.
It can demonstrate:
- wavelength
- frequency
- reflection
- refraction
- diffraction
- interference
A vibrating source creates regular water waves that can be observed from above.
Water Waves and Coastlines
Understanding water waves is important for coastal science and engineering.
Wave behaviour influences:
- erosion
- sediment transport
- beach formation
- harbour design
- seawall construction
- coastal flooding
- navigation
Because refraction changes wave direction, some parts of a coastline can receive more wave energy than others.
Coastal Erosion
Waves carry energy toward coastlines.
When waves strike cliffs and beaches, they can:
- remove material
- move sediment
- wear away rock
- reshape shorelines
Higher-energy waves generally have a greater potential to cause erosion.
However, erosion also depends on:
- rock type
- coastline shape
- wave frequency
- weather
- tides
- sediment availability
Harbours and Breakwaters
A breakwater is a structure designed to reduce wave energy reaching a harbour or shoreline.
Breakwaters can:
- protect boats
- reduce erosion
- create calmer water
- protect coastal infrastructure
However, they can also change wave patterns and sediment movement.
Engineers therefore use knowledge of:
- reflection
- diffraction
- refraction
- wave energy
when designing coastal structures.
Tsunamis
A tsunami is a series of long-wavelength water waves usually produced by a large displacement of water.
Possible causes include:
- underwater earthquakes
- landslides
- volcanic activity
Tsunamis behave very differently from ordinary wind-generated surface waves.
In deep ocean water, a tsunami can have:
- extremely long wavelength
- high speed
- relatively small wave height compared with its wavelength
As it approaches shallow water, its speed decreases and its height can increase dramatically.
Why Tsunamis Become Dangerous Near Shore
A tsunami carries a very large amount of energy.
As it enters shallow coastal water:
- wave speed decreases
- wavelength decreases
- wave height can increase
- water can surge far inland
A tsunami should not simply be imagined as one giant ordinary breaking wave. It can behave more like a rapidly rising and powerful surge of water.
Measuring Ocean Waves
Scientists and engineers can monitor water waves using:
- floating buoys
- satellites
- coastal instruments
- radar
- pressure sensors
- tide gauges
Measurements can include:
- wave height
- wavelength
- period
- direction
- water depth
- wave speed
These observations can support weather forecasting, shipping, coastal engineering, and hazard warnings.
Water Waves and Energy
Water waves contain mechanical energy.
This energy can sometimes be captured using wave-energy devices.
Possible systems use:
- floating structures
- moving pistons
- oscillating water columns
- hinged devices
Wave motion is converted into mechanical motion and then into electrical energy.
The challenge is designing equipment that can operate reliably in harsh ocean conditions.
Applications of Water-Wave Knowledge
Understanding water waves is useful in:
- coastal engineering
- harbour design
- erosion management
- tsunami warning systems
- shipping
- offshore construction
- wave-energy generation
- weather forecasting
- surfing
- marine science
- oceanography
Water-wave physics therefore connects classroom wave concepts to large-scale natural and technological systems.
A Complete Example
Ocean waves have:
wavelength = 40 m
frequency = 0.15 Hz
Calculate the wave speed using the basic wave relationship.
v = fλ
v = 0.15 × 40
v = 6 m/s
The period is:
T = 1/f
T = 1/0.15
T ≈ 6.67 s
Therefore:
- wavelength = 40 m
- frequency = 0.15 Hz
- speed = 6 m/s
- period ≈ 6.67 s
If these waves move into shallower water and slow while their frequency remains constant, their wavelength will decrease.
Interpreting a Water-Wave Situation
When analyzing a water-wave problem, ask:
- What direction is the wave travelling?
- How are the water particles moving?
- Where are the crests and troughs?
- What is the amplitude?
- What is the wavelength?
- What is the frequency or period?
- What is the wave speed?
- Is the water deep or shallow relative to the wavelength?
- Is the wave changing speed?
- Could reflection, refraction, diffraction, or interference occur?
- What does the wave behaviour mean in the real situation?
This approach connects diagrams, calculations, and physical explanations.
Common Mistakes
Thinking water travels forward with the wave
Water particles mainly move in local orbital paths while the wave and its energy travel forward.
Saying water particles only move up and down
Surface particles generally have both vertical and horizontal motion, producing approximately circular or elliptical paths.
Calling water waves purely transverse
Real surface water waves involve more complicated particle motion.
Confusing amplitude and wave height
Amplitude is measured from equilibrium to a crest or trough.
Wave height is measured from trough to crest.
Measuring wavelength from crest to neighbouring trough
This is approximately half a wavelength.
Assuming wave speed is always constant
Water-wave speed can change with depth and, in deep water, with wavelength.
Thinking frequency decreases when waves enter shallow water
For a wave crossing into a different depth, frequency remains approximately constant while speed and wavelength change.
Thinking waves speed up near shore
They generally slow as they enter shallow water.
Assuming refraction means reflection
Reflection involves bouncing back.
Refraction involves changing direction because wave speed changes.
Thinking tsunami waves behave exactly like ordinary beach waves
Tsunamis have extremely long wavelengths and behave differently from ordinary wind-generated waves.
Key Terms
Water wave — disturbance that transfers energy through or across water.
Surface wave — wave travelling along the boundary between water and another medium, usually air.
Particle motion — movement of individual water particles as a wave passes.
Orbital motion — approximately circular or elliptical movement of water particles associated with surface waves.
Equilibrium level — normal undisturbed water level.
Crest — highest part of a wave.
Trough — lowest part of a wave.
Amplitude — maximum displacement from equilibrium.
Wave height — vertical distance from trough to crest.
Wavelength (λ) — distance between corresponding points on consecutive waves.
Frequency (f) — number of complete cycles per second.
Period (T) — time required for one complete wave cycle.
Wave speed (v) — speed at which the wave disturbance travels.
Deep-water wave — wave travelling where the water is sufficiently deep that the bottom has little effect.
Shallow-water wave — wave travelling where water depth strongly affects its motion.
Shoaling — changes that occur as waves enter shallower water, including reduced speed and wavelength and often increased wave height.
Refraction — change in wave direction caused by a change in wave speed.
Reflection — bouncing of wave energy from a boundary.
Diffraction — spreading of waves around obstacles or through openings.
Interference — combination of overlapping waves.
Ripple tank — apparatus used to investigate water-wave behaviour.
Breakwater — coastal structure designed to reduce incoming wave energy.
Tsunami — series of long-wavelength waves caused by large displacement of water.
Key Takeaways
- Water waves transfer energy without carrying the same water particles forward with the wave over large distances.
- Near the surface of deep water, particles move in approximately circular paths.
- Particle motion becomes smaller with increasing depth.
- In shallower water, particle paths become increasingly flattened or elliptical because of interaction with the bottom.
- Surface water waves are not purely transverse or purely longitudinal.
- Water waves have crests, troughs, amplitude, wavelength, frequency, period, and speed.
- Amplitude is measured from equilibrium to a crest or trough.
- Wave height is measured from trough to crest.
- Wavelength can be measured from crest to crest or trough to trough.
- Wave speed can be related to frequency and wavelength using v = fλ.
- Deep-water waves are relatively unaffected by the seabed.
- Shallow-water waves are strongly affected by water depth.
- Waves generally slow as they enter shallower water.
- Frequency remains approximately constant when a wave moves into a region of different depth.
- If speed decreases while frequency remains constant, wavelength decreases.
- Waves can become taller and steeper as they approach shore.
- Waves may eventually break.
- Refraction occurs when different parts of a wavefront change speed.
- Reflection, diffraction, and interference also occur in water waves.
- Ripple tanks allow these behaviours to be studied experimentally.
- Water-wave physics is important in coastal engineering, erosion, harbour design, tsunami science, shipping, and renewable energy.
- Tsunamis have extremely long wavelengths and can become much more dangerous as they enter shallow coastal water.
- Understanding particle motion and water depth is essential for explaining how water waves behave.
Check Your Understanding
- Explain how water particles move as a surface wave passes in sufficiently deep water.
- Explain why a floating object can move up and down as waves pass without travelling forward at the same speed as the waves.
- Why are real surface water waves not considered purely transverse waves?
- Define crest, trough, amplitude, wave height, and wavelength.
- A water wave has a trough-to-crest height of 3.6 m. Determine its amplitude.
- Consecutive crests are separated by 12 m. The frequency is 0.25 Hz. Calculate the wave speed.
- A water wave has a frequency of 0.40 Hz. Calculate its period.
- The distance from the first crest to the fifth crest is 32 m. Determine the wavelength.
- Describe how particle motion changes with depth beneath a deep-water surface wave.
- Compare deep-water and shallow-water waves in terms of bottom interaction, particle motion, speed, and wavelength.
- A wave travels from deep water into shallow water. Explain what happens to its speed, frequency, and wavelength.
- Explain how refraction can cause waves approaching a beach at an angle to become more nearly parallel to the shoreline.
- Describe how a ripple tank could be used to demonstrate two of the following: reflection, refraction, diffraction, or interference.
- Explain why a tsunami may have a relatively small height in deep ocean water but become extremely dangerous as it reaches shallow coastal water.
- A coastal engineer is designing a harbour protected by a breakwater. Explain how knowledge of reflection, refraction, diffraction, water depth, and wave energy could help the engineer decide where and how the breakwater should be constructed.
4. Seismic Waves
Learning outcomes
- I can distinguish between P-waves and S-waves.
- I can explain how earthquakes produce seismic waves.
- I can identify which seismic waves travel through solids and liquids.
- I can describe how seismic waves help scientists study Earth's interior.
- I can compare different seismic wave types.
5. Applications of Mechanical Waves
Learning outcomes
- I can identify applications of sound waves.
- I can explain how ultrasound is used in medicine.
- I can describe sonar technology.
- I can explain how engineers use wave principles.
- I can recognize mechanical waves in everyday life.